Photo by Craig McDean for Vogue
Shoutout to every cosmetologist out there who has seen and heard it all within the confines of salon walls. From neighborhood gossip to personal spiritual awakenings to a gab sesh of politics, women seem to confide in their estheticians more than their own circle of besties. But what were to happen if the tables were turned, and our go-to beauty professionals could tell us everything, no filter? I asked Coco Casgraux and Kendra Studdert, founders of Los Angeles-based lash extension company GBY Beauty, gave us all the dish on what lash technicians wish they could tell their clients — without the sugar-coating.
Photo via Buzzfeed
Mascara is bad for your falsies, seriously
Even after clients gush about their new gorgeous flutters, there are always a few who insist on adding a little extra mascara on top of their extensions. But doing so can do more harm than good.
“Stay away from mascara, especially waterproof mascara,” says Studdert. “Putting mascara on the tips of your lashes is okay if you really want, but using the mascara wand on the base of your lashes and pulling through can completely pull out your extensions and natural lashes, not a good look at all!”
Though if you happen to be a victim of lash loss, GBY Beauty recommends Grande Lash as a growth serum. “It’s the closest thing to Latisse in terms of efficacy minus the prescription and without any side effects,” says Studdert. With new lash application, your everyday skincare and makeup routine is fine, but steer clear of heavy oil-based formulas that dilute the glue bond.
They can totally tell when you haven’t taken care of them
Lash extensions shouldn’t get wet for the first 24 hours (unless you get a waterproof adhesive like ActiveLash). But after that, you should be putting as much care into your lashes like you do your brows. “We can always see right away when they haven’t,” says Casgraux. “Makeup residue, everyday dirt and oils will collect on your lash extensions, and you can’t hide lash buildup.”
Studdert suggests using a gentle cleanser like baby shampoo or Lash Splash to delicately keep your lashes as pristine as possible.
Nice lashes aren’t cheap and cheap lashes aren’t nice
You heard ‘em right. Not that we need to dish out our paychecks for weekly lash fills, but skillfully applied, gorgeous lashes will cost you a pretty penny.
“You’re asking someone who has an extremely specialized skillset to create something beautiful while maneuvering sharp objects millimeters from your face–do you really want to skimp money on that?” asks Studdert. “You might see lashes priced at $40 or $50 for a full set at a nail shop or something, but when lash extension sets are priced so low, it usually means they apply several lashes to one natural lash, or that your technician may not be properly licensed. Improper applications is a serious health and hygiene issue, and you could completely damage your lash line.”
Think of it this way: you’d want the skillful colorist to highlight your hair, wouldn’t you?
“Applying lash extensions is a skill…it’s takes time, and lot of practice. A full set should cost at the very least $90,” Casgraux chimed in. “GBY Beauty’s technicians are all licensed estheticians and cosmetologists, and they’re well-versed in aesthetics and caring for people’s skin. We use a lash-per-lash application, which preserves lash health. That should be your lash artist’s main goal.”
Invest in your lash extensions. You’ll be happy you did!
Speak up when you’re unhappy
“We would so much rather you tell us if you’re unhappy so we can fix it instead of the possibility of being upset or sharing a negative experience with us,” says Casgraux. All stylists can attest to this, ladies. At the end of the day, lash artists want to make you feel like a goddess.
Respect the process
Whether it’s coming in for timely fills or taking a temporary break from extensions all together–observe your natural growth cycle. Casgraux recommends letting your lashes go bare every six months for a minimum of two weeks. “This also will allow new lashes to grow in and thicken, and your eyelid line to be thoroughly cleansed after the months of any buildup and bacteria.”
As far as lash fills go, the responsibility is real. Once you get started, either prepare for regular fills, or get them safely removed to avoid uneven extension fallout.
“We like to ask our clients to come in for lash fills if they have 50% of their lash extensions on (the average time is 2-3 weeks). Any less, and you’re due for a full set,” says Studdert. “Coming in with 5-10 lashes on each eye is not a fill. Y’all know better!”